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Paul Bond Custom Cowboy Boots Considerations

 Paul Bond Custom Boots is not, of course, a mass manufacturer of handmade cowboy boots. 

Mass producers make “Stock Boots” that they designate as Men or Women’s handmade cowboy boots. They usually make the men’s boots in selected styles and colors men may like, with welted soles. They make the women’s boots in styles that women may like, with lighter leathers and with featherweight, non-welted soles. They sometimes follow the shoe industry’s sizing scales, which are different for men and women. So, their Stock Boots are broken into Men and Women’s lines, in relatively (compared to Paul Bond Custom Boots) limited variations.

Paul Bond Custom Boots offers unlimited variations in Custom Cowboy Boots and a limited number of “Stock Handmade Cowboy Boots”.  Paul Bond Custom Cowboy Boots does not classify its handmade cowboy boots as Women or Men’s.


We size all of our Paul Bond handmade boots on a single standard scale for both Men and Women. (The Shoe industry and some mass manufacturers of cowboy boots use two different size scales for Men and Women. For example, a Woman’s shoe size 9 would be about a size 8 on a Man’s shoe scale, and in  Paul Bond Handmade Boots. Men who wear a size 10 D in a boot elsewhere, should probably first try Paul Bond stock handmade cowboy boots size 10 1/2 D)

From there, it is a matter of a person’s personal choices for lightness, flexibility, toughness, and softness in handmade cowboy boots.

Custom Cowboy Boots - SOLES

From heavy welted soles, through various intermediate welted weights, to featherweight non-welted custom made cowboy boots. The type of sole you choose can make a big difference in the feel of your Paul Bond custom boots.

· Lightweight non-welted soles are the lightest and most flexible, and are easiest to break in.  Partially this is because there is no welt (see below) and partially because a thinner leather is used for the actual sole.  This gives added lightness and comfort to custom cowboy boots, although they will need resoling more often.  (You usually see lightweight soles on a man’s Italian loafer or maximum comfort cowboy dress boot , or a mass producer’s “woman’s western boot”.)  Those seeking lightness and comfort prefer it.   The Paul Bond Custom Cowboy Boots catalog shows a lightweight (also called featherweight) sole on its example of a Custom Boots Design 11.B.-Thistle  .

What is a welt? A welt is a strip of stiff leather that is hand sewn to the bottom of the leather in your vamps (feet of your Paul Bond custom made cowboy boots). It provides a strong, tight, and stable foundation to which we sew the sole.

· Welted soles are a little heavier, and a bit stiffer initially. They take more wear before needing resoling, and stand up better to hard treatment. This is the type of sole you more often see in Paul Bond standard man’s custom cowboy boots or women's working cowboy boots.  Paul Bond Custom Made Cowboy Boots design 13 A-Deadwood is shown with a regular welted sole.  And yes, there are different weights of soles Paul Bond Custom Boots attaches to welts.  The usual sole that Paul Bond Boots uses is a regular weight, but we can attach thinner or heavier soles as you wish on your Paul Bond custom made cowboy boots. 

Men frequently, but not always, prefer welted soles. However, others prefer the extra comfort of lightweight non-welted soles for dress Paul Bond Custom Cowboy Boots.

Women frequently, but not always, prefer non-welted soles, featherweight soles, in their Paul Bond Custom Made Cowboy Boots..

However, there is no “Rule”.

Some women prefer welted soles, either for their dress Custom Cowboy Boots or because they are Working Cowgirls, showing horses/ranching/etc, and need a sole that can take more of a beating.

Men and women who place a higher value on comfort in their Paul Bond custom cowboy boots. prefer Featherweight soles because they are are light and flexible, and look like dress boots. 

 For Custom Cowboy Boots, Paul Bond Boots supplies the sole that you decide is the best for you, and the job it will need to do.  Some of the Stock Paul Bond Handmade Cowboy Boots have the featherweight soles, and some have welted.  If you can’t tell from the picture, just ask us.  (Contact Us)

Custom Cowboy Boots - LEATHERS

Paul Bond Custom Boots offers a wide variety of leathers. Each has its own characteristics, including toughness and flexibility. Here we are focusing on weight and suppleness in custom cowboy boots..    (See Paul Bond Custom Made Cowboy Boots -  Options for brief descriptions of leathers)

Men and women who want dressy custom cowboy boots favor Kangaroo, dress weight Calf, and Ostrich, as well as the exotic leathers like Alligator, Snake, and Lizard in their Paul Bond handmade cowboy boots.

Those who want a heavier and even tougher leather in their custom cowboy boots favor hides such as Buffalo, Bull hide, and Wax French Calf. 

Wax French Calf, is the toughest for a Paul Bond handmade working cowboy boot that is going to be put to hard use such as heavy brush and/or the muck of corrals,  This is the leather used in our famous Paul Bond Working Cowboy Boots.


At the decision point, It all comes down to your personal preferences based on how you want your Paul Bond Handmade Cowboy Boots to look & feel, and what you are planning to do while wearing them.  Do you want a flexible lightweight cowboy boot, or a medium boot, or a tough custom working cowboy boot?  How flexible and light do you want the leather and soles?  How varied a color choice do you want for your custom made cowboy boots?

For the lightest weight custom cowboy boots, consider featherweight non-welted soles, in Kangaroo, lightweight Calf, Ostrich, Lizard, or small-check Alligator.  Ostrich offers an especially large color selection, and Kangaroo and Calf offer almost as many variations..

For in-between, consider just about anything.

For the toughest custom cowboy boots, consider Wax French Calf with welted soles.

The freedom to choose exactly what you want in custom cowboy boots is one of the most enjoyable aspects of wearing Paul Bond Custom Cowboy Boots.

At any time while you are thinking through your Paul Bond Custom Made Cowboy Boots order and making your choices for your personal custom cowboy boots and their style, design and fit, please call or email us if you would like to talk about your choices/options, or to see swatches of leathers and/or colors for your pair of Paul Bond Custom Cowboy Boots.

520-281-0512 or 520-281-1077, or click the CONTACT US  link.

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Please see "How to Order" for more guidance, or call us.

Hours of Operation

M - F 8:00 am - 5:00 pm

Saturday 9:00 am - 4:00 pm

915 West Paul Bond Drive,  Nogales, AZ 85621

Tel: 520-281-0512

Fax: 520-281-2577


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